Tegernseerhof ‘Ried Kellerberg’ Riesling Smaragd, Wachau, Austria 2021

Tegernseerhof is one of the Wachau’s historic estates, dating back to 1176 and now stewarded by fifth-generation grower Martin Mittelbach. Known for producing some of the region’s most precise and intensely mineral Rieslings, Martin farms steep, terraced vineyards at the eastern end of the Wachau, where gneiss bedrock, loess topsoils, and dramatic temperature shifts shape wines of striking tension. Certified organic in the early 2020s, Tegernseerhof is devoted to clean, botrytis-free fruit and vinification entirely in stainless steel—hallmarks of Mittelbach’s razor-sharp style.

WINEMAKER: Martin Mittelbach

FARMING: Certified Organic

VARIETY: 100% Riesling

TERROIR: From six steep parcels within Ried Kellerberg, one of the Wachau’s most esteemed sites. Planted in the late 1990s on terraces facing south and southeast at 204–336 meters. Bedrock is pure gneiss with a thin topsoil of gneiss and loess, producing wines of power, precision, and pronounced mineral drive.

VINIFICATION: Grapes are hand-harvested and rigorously sorted to remove any botrytis. Whole-cluster maceration for 6–36 hours before pressing. Fermented naturally in stainless steel over 1–2 months, never exceeding 23°C. Malolactic fermentation is rare and not preferred.

AGING: Aged 6–9 months on the lees in stainless steel. First sulfite addition occurs after primary fermentation. Wines are fined (when necessary) and filtered for stability.

TASTING NOTES: A taut, mineral-driven Smaragd with electric acidity and crystalline purity. Aromas of lime peel, white peach, crushed stone, and alpine herbs lead into a palate that is densely structured yet impeccably focused. The gneiss terraces impart a signature stony tension, while long lees aging adds subtle depth. The finish is long, saline, and laser-like—classic Kellerberg.

FOOD PAIRINGS: Sushi, sashimi, grilled river fish, schnitzel, goat cheese, or savory vegetable dishes. Excellent with herb-driven cuisine.

SCORES: Falstaff, 95–97 points