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Domaine Christophe et Fils 'Mont de Milieu' 1er Cru Chablis, Burgundy, France 2022
Sebastien Christophe started with a small half hectare parcel of Petit Chablis from his family and made a run for it. After winemaking school he started to vinify this tiny parcel and has slowly acquired small parcels of village vineyards and a lot of Petit Chablis land. He also rents parcels that he farms entirely himself. Today, he has three premier crus on the right bank of the Serein river, Fourchaume, Mont de Milieu and Montée de Tonnerre. To our surprise, it’s difficult (almost impossible) to find his wines in town on any list. He exports almost everything, save the wines sold to some of the top spots in Paris.
Terroir: Located south of the grand crus and the noblest of premier crus, Montée de Tonnerre, it’s one of the most versatile premier crus in Chablis. Although it’s not talked about much, on this side of the river it’s easy to see slopes that have a tremendous amount of the portlandian limestone that have made their way down the hills and are set in place by the sticky marne soils (calcium rich clay) on kimmeridgian marl bedrock. These soil elements and the south to southwest aspects on this side of the Serein River often have greater palate weight and roundness, and less intense mineral components than many of those across the river on the left bank, depending on each vineyard. Mont de Milieu has a great range of characteristics that place it in the center stylistically between the right and left bank. Finesse is its main game but it plenty of thrust that drives home its complex range of subtleties.
Vinification: The grapes are picked by hand, pressed, settled in tank overnight, then racked off the heavy sediments after one day before beginning its low temperature fermentation. The spontaneous wild yeast fermentation lasts between 1-2 months and takes place in stainless steel (80%) and the remainder in 228-liter oak barrels (new, 1, 2 and 3 year-old, the total new wood is approximately 7%). Battonage (stirring) is sometimes made, but only in the steel tanks and the frequency depends on the vintage—warm years nothing and in colder ones no more than two times. The first SO2 addition is made after the press before fermentation and the second (and sometimes the last) after both fermentations have finished.
Aging: One year in stainless steel (80%) and the remainder in 228-liter oak barrels (new, 1, 2 and 3 year-old, the total new wood is approximately 7%). It is fined and filtered.
Tasting Notes: Mineral, Fine, Sweet Citrus, Ethereal, White Flower, Oyster Shell, Ocean Spray, Iodine
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We acknowledge that we are on the unceded ancestral homelands of the Ramaytush Ohlone (the original inhabitants of the San Francisco Peninsula) and the Wappo & Miwok (the original inhabitants of Napa County).