Chacra Chardonnay, Patagonia, Argentina 2023

Piero Incisa della Rocchetta, hailing from one of Italy's most renowned winemaking dynasties, ventured far from his roots in Sassicaia to carve out a new legacy in Patagonia's Río Negro region.

In 2004, Piero stumbled upon ancient, ungrafted Pinot Noir vines, setting the stage for a unique chapter in his winemaking journey. He established Bodega Chacra, crafting some of Argentina’s finest Pinot Noir from vineyards planted in 1955, 1945, and 1932. In recent years, he teamed up with Burgundy icon Jean-Marc Roulot, bringing a new level of excellence to Bodega Chacra’s Chardonnay. The results have been nothing short of exceptional.

FROM OUR OCTOBER 2024 BOTTLE CULT NOTES:

Piero Incisa della Rocchetta is no stranger to elite winemaking. He is the grandson of the founder of Tenuta San Guido, the producer of the infamous Super-Tuscan brand Sassicaia in Italy. After a sampling of Patagonian wines in New York, Piero was inspired to launch his own label in the relatively underdeveloped region. In 2004, he founded Bodega Chacra, nestled in the Rio Negro Valley of northern Patagonia. The unique terroir, with alluvial soils composed of limestone, sand, and clay, benefits from the arid, desert climate and crystal-clear air. The valley’s naturally phylloxera-free environment and minimal rainfall create perfect conditions for organic and biodynamic viticulture. Piero's first purchase was a neglected Pinot Noir vineyard planted in 1932, which he restored to its former glory, leading to the expansion of Chacra’s holdings, which now include additional old vine vineyards from 1955 and 1967.

The winemaking at Chacra emphasizes minimal intervention, with native yeast fermentation and aging in a mix of cement vats and Burgundian oak barrels. Piero’s dedication to traditional methods and his passion for the land have resulted in pure, expressive wines that bridge the gap between New and Old World styles. His meticulous commitment to craftsmanship has also gained Bodega Chacra international attention. In 2016, Piero partnered with Burgundy’s Jean-Marc Roulot to introduce Chardonnay to the estate, adding a fresh, mineral-driven white wine to Chacra’s portfolio. If you don’t know the name Roulot, just do a quick Google search (warning: don’t let the prices you see knock you out of your seat). He is widely considered one of the living masters of Chardonnay, and very rarely lends his name or expertise to outside projects. But much like Piero, Jean-Marc was intrigued by the beauty and potential of Southern Hemisphere Chardonnay from such a compelling terroir. Together, the two men set out to make South America’s best Chardonnay. It is produced from 40 year old vines planted in alluvial stones covered in limestone. Using only native yeasts, the wine is fermented and then aged in a mix of 20% concrete eggs, 15% stainless steel tanks, and 20% in used French oak barrels for 10 months. 

If you were to confuse this wine for white Burgundy, no one would blame you. The wine is intense and energetic, with lively aromas of yellow apple, gooseberry, meyer lemon peel, and refined minerality and saltiness. The high pitched acidity speaks to the ageability of this unique wine. Lay this bottle down for 3-10 years; if you desire freshness, leave for fewer years. But if you enjoy the rounded and textured complexion that high quality Chardonnay can present after some aging, hold on to it for a bit longer. Pair it with pretty much anything, barring incredibly spicy or dense dishes that will thwart its delicate quality.    — Simi Grewal