Franz Hirtzberger 'Hochrain' Smaragd Riesling, Wachau, Austria 2023

Franz Hirtzberger is a generational force in Wachau, with three generations shaping both vineyard and regional legacy. Franz II, a founding voice of Vinea Wachau and longtime president, brought precision and restraint to the cellar, while Franz III now leads winemaking with the same respect for site and structure. Their steep, loess-laden terraces around Spitz—including Singerriedel, Honivogl, and Hochrain—produce some of Austria’s most age-worthy, mineral-driven wines.

• WINEMAKER: Franz Hirtzberger III

• FARMING: Sustainable practices, with low-intervention cellar work

• VARIETY: 100% Riesling

• TERROIR: Hochrain is a section of the Axpoint vineyard in Spitz, composed of deeply weathered loam over thick deposits of windblown loess from the last Ice Age. Rich in quartz, feldspar, and carbonates, this mineral-heavy, calcareous soil retains water well and lends both structure and aromatic lift to Riesling.

• VINIFICATION: Fermented with native yeasts in stainless steel; minimal intervention to preserve site character

• AGING: Aged in large neutral oak casks (Stückfass) for texture and complexity, typical for Smaragd-tier wines

• TASTING NOTES: Expressive and structured, with ripe orchard fruit—yellow peach, golden apple—and notes of white flowers, flinty minerality, and spice. The Smaragd weight brings depth and concentration, while a line of acidity keeps the wine focused and age-worthy.

• FOOD PAIRINGS: Roast pork with apricots, cured trout, Wiener schnitzel, or semi-aged Alpine cheeses