Tentenublo 'Xérico' Tempranillo, Rioja, Spain 2018

Oliván and Leyre Ruiz, the estate focuses on organic farming, site-specific vinification, and a fresh, energetic expression of Rioja’s historic terroir.

• WINEMAKER: Roberto Oliván
• FARMING: Organic
• VARIETY: 85% Tempranillo, 15% Viura
• TERROIR: Sourced from 15-50-year-old, head-trained vines in Viñaspre, Rioja Alavesa. Vineyards sit between 550-700 meters on eroded calcareous marl slopes (Xeric Torriorthent soils), benefiting from mountain exposure and a mix of Atlantic and Mediterranean climatic influences.
• VINIFICATION: Grapes are foot-trodden and fermented parcel-by-parcel in concrete tanks with native yeasts. 20% whole clusters are used, with short macerations and light punchdowns. Malolactic fermentation and aging occur in concrete tanks for 9 months with minimal sulfur use (18mg/L total SO2).
• AGING: Aged in concrete tanks for 9 months, followed by blending and 2 additional months of harmonization before bottling.
• TASTING NOTES: A vibrant, lighter-styled Rioja with fresh red fruit, bright acidity, earthy minerality, and a slight wild edge from the inclusion of Viura. The palate is taut and energetic, with a clean, lingering finish.
• FOOD PAIRINGS: Pairs well with roasted lamb, grilled mushrooms, jamón Ibérico, Basque-style seafood dishes, and Manchego cheese.

From Our 2025 Bottle Cult Notes:

Bodega Tentenublo, founded by Roberto Oliván in 2011, is a small but dynamic winery in the village of Viñaspre, in Rioja Alavesa. Located at the foothills of the Sierra Cantabria mountains, Rioja Alavesa’s well-regarded reputation within Rioja is due to its high-altitude vineyards, cooler Atlantic influence, and distinct clay-limestone soils. You won’t find a lot of Garnacha grown here, especially when compared to the Rioja Baja, as Alvesa’s cooler temperatures are better suited for the red Tempranillo and the white Viura (an indigenous white grape of Rioja), and is known for a lighter, more lifted style of Rioja.

Historically, Oliván’s family sold their grapes to larger producers, who traditionally blended the freshness of Alavesa with the bolder styles of the warmer Rioja Baja and the classic flavors of Rioja Alta. Now, he cultivates for himself, with nine hectares across 26 high-altitude plots (up to 620m) with limestone and sandstone soils.

His approach emphasizes traditional Rioja methods—working with old bush vines (some over 100 years old), field blends, and minimal-intervention winemaking. The 2018 Xérico reflects this philosophy, co-fermenting 80% Tempranillo with 20% Viura for added floral complexity. Aged five months in cement and chestnut foudres, Xérico offers bright cherry and peppercorn notes, hints of young leather, and rustic tannins that showcase the elegance and depth of Rioja Alavesa’s terroir. This wine would be stunning with earthy or gamey foods—I suggest fatty lamb chops with chimichurri or an indulgent mushroom cannelloni with béchamel. —Simi Grewal, DECANT co-founder