VidAs is a family project that aims to contribute to the conservation of native varieties, and tradition while developing modern viticulture in Cangas, southwestern Asturias. Asturias is part of the territory classified as Mountain Viticulture or Heroic Viticulture by CERVIM, an exclusivity in Spain only shared by Cangas Wine, the D.O. Ribeira Sacra, and the D.O. Priorat. Cangas wines have been produced since the 10th century thanks to the needs of wine in the monasteries. However, the mining boom in the region in the late 20th century nearly wiped out the vineyards. Since then, the region of Asturias has been known mostly for Cider production. But, about 15 years ago, this situation began to change, with efforts being made to preserve this culture. Production is still small compared to other regions of Spain or the world, but the future is bright!
- Winemaker: Beatriz Perez Garcia
- Farming: Organic practices.
- Variety: 40% Albarin Negro, Carrasquin, Verdejo Negro (Trousseau)
- Terroir: 30-60 year-old vines on planted on terraced slate soils in mountainous areas, 500m+.
- Vinification: Harvested by hand in 15 kg crates, part of the grapes are left without destemming or crushing. Fermentation is started with indigenous yeasts, the mash is stirred using the traditional method twice a day. Alcoholic and malolactic fermentation in stainless steel tanks
- Aging: Aged in a used, 3,000 liter French foudre for 7 months.
- Low total SO2 (20 ppm).
- Production: 330 cases
- Tasting Notes: very light body, with cranberries, raspberry, and light herbal tones.
This is our pick for May 2024 Bottle of the Month:
Bodegas Vidas Siete Vidas-Parcelas Singulares Cangas, Asturias, Spain 2021
Although perhaps one of the least well-known wine regions in Spain, the Cangas DO (Denominación de Origen) in Asturias produces high-quality, affordable, age-worthy wines that belong in your cellar. Visiting Cangas and the Siete Vidas winery is like traveling to the Middle Ages. Similar in many ways to Galicia, but more remote, Asturias is green and wet, with stone hovels and wood smoke always in the air. Cangas del Narcea and the surrounding areas were viticulturally important from the 11th century until 1950 when coal mining abruptly stopped cultivation, causing grape production to drop from 3 million kilos per year to its current 100,000. Now, Cangas native Beatriz Pérez is working to revive local wine culture. She cares for many of the few remaining plots of vines entrusted to her by older locals too old to tend them on their own and is also planting new vineyards. She is on a quest to showcase what Cangas can do through her beautiful wines.
Beatriz’s 2021 Siete Vidas Parcelas Singulares is made entirely of varieties we don’t see much of in Spain! The wine comprises 40% Albarín Negro, 30% Carrasquín, and 30% Verdejo Negro sourced from 30- to 60-year-old practicing organic vineyards. The wine was aged in a used, 3,000-liter French foudre for 7 months. This wine is a classic representation of what “minimal intervention” means, with limited production (only 330 cases made!) and naturally low in SO2.
Albarin Negro (aka Alfrocheiro in Portugal) could be called the “flagship” varietal of Cangas. It produces polished wines that can be extremely ageable. This variety is versatile and plays well with others, making it a highly suitable blending grape. Together with the light, fresh, and hyper-local Carrasquin and the juicy Verdejo Negro (aka Trousseau), this blend yields a wine that is deeply aromatic, romantic, and intriguing. The wine is creamy with luscious blueberry yogurt notes and a dash of black pepper. The fruit is very generous throughout the long finish. I dream of sharing a bottle of this wine with my boo over a dinner of braised lamb with rosemary and roasted garlic. —Karen Smith
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