Brundlmayer 'Alte Reben' Riesling, Ried Zöbinger Heiligenstein 1 ÖTW, Kamptal, Austria 2014

The Bründlmayer family owns 12 hectares right in the center of the Zöbinger Heiligenstein. 10,5 hectares are planted with Riesling. About 20% of the vineyards are trained in the Lyra trellis system. The other Heiligenstein vines are raised by the traditional Guyot method with the berries hanging 50-60 centimeters above the ground. Thinning is done as required to restrict the average yield to 3500-4000 liters per hectare for this classic (Kamptal DAC) Version. Two Reserves from Heiligenstein (Lyra, Alte Reben) are used to be harvested later in the year.

Today the old vines (Alte Reben average 50 years of age with the oldest reaching as many as 75 years.

Older vines are less productive, forming fewer and smaller grapes that profit from a well-developed root system. This root system reaches deep into the ground and supplies its fruit with potent nourishment. Consequently, wines of these vineyards are extremely flavorful with enormous concentration.

From a geological point of view, the Zöbinger Heiligenstein site is not only the oldest but probably also the most interesting on the estate: the soil consists of approximately 270 Mio years old Perm desert sandstone. The sediments contain volcanic inclusions and carbonized remains of primeval vegetation. The uniqueness of this soil, its perfect gradient and position (SW to SE in a climatic borderland) provide ideal preconditions for growing outstanding wines. During the day warm winds (often due to the effects of the Pannonian climate) mount along the site whereas by nightfall cool gusts from the North start blowing through the Kamp Valley and bring forward the aromatic expression of the grapes.

• Winemaker: Willi Bründlmayer
  
• Farming: Organic
  
• Variety: Riesling (50-75+ year old vines)
  
• Terroir: Heiligenstein vineyard soil consists of approximately 270 Mio years old Perm desert sandstone. The sediments contain volcanic inclusions and carbonized remains of primeval vegetation. The uniqueness of this soil, its perfect gradient and position (SW to SE in a climatic borderland) provide ideal preconditions for growing outstanding wines. During the day warm winds (often due to the effects of the Pannonian climate) mount along the site whereas by nightfall cool gusts from the North start blowing through the Kamp Valley and bring forward the aromatic expression of the grapes.
  
• Vinification: Grapes are never de-stemmed or crushed, and they are handled as minimally as possible. A tiny portion of grapes are held back, de-stemmed, and macerated for 12 hours; Willi uses these as ‘seasoning’ during blending to add another dimension and tonality to the final wines. Stainless Steel fermentation
• Aging: in large wooden cask
  
• Scores: 93 Points, Vinous “Bittersweet, herbally pungent floral perfume suggesting gentian and lavender rises from the glass, then wafts through the entire polished performance, while the marine mineral elements so prominent in this estate’s other two Riesling Heiligenstein bottlings here turn in a stonier but no less mouthwateringly savory direction. Pepper and crushed stone impingements along with hazelnut piquancy and cooling mint extend a long finish that preserves primary juiciness of lime, ripe mirabelle and white peach. Weighing in alcoholically between its “Lyra” and “regular” Heiligenstein siblings of the vintage, this strikes a felicitously elegant balance between richness and refreshing animation.”  – David Schildknecht